Mauretania

November/December 2008

 

We applied for the visa in Germany, but you could still get it directly at the border. You don’t have to drive in convoy anymore, but the good tar road ends and you have to drive some tough kilometers from the Western Sahara to the Mauretanian border post. Perhaps the border police guys ask for something, perhaps not, but they definitely have enough tea, so you don’t have to buy some in Guelmin. Do you really have to bring alcohol into the country? Customs will ask if you carry any with you and perhaps search your car, because alcohol is forbidden in Mauretania. Some guys will offer you a car insurance directly at the border and since there is a new camping site at the road to Nouakchott, you don’t have to go to Nouadhibou to get it. Don’t forget your fiches. Jonas needed around 40 for all countries.

In 2008 you could drive to Senegal or Mali all on tar! On the route de l’espoir (also known as route de cadavres) there is an awful lot of dead animals along the road. 99% of the cars in Mauretania are old Mercedes. And they are in such a bad condition that you will ask yourself how someone can do this to a car!

It could take some time to find a working ATM. Banks, if there are any at all, sometimes don’t change, so we got our money at the camp site and the auberge in the two big cities.

Toilets were always okay.

 

Most people go to Mauretania to go into the desert. The country is nothing but desert, with some wildlife along the coast. If you like desert, muslim culture, lots of landscape and solitude, it’s a great place. I want to go there a second time to see some more. The two big cities are quite new and without character. The market in Nouakchott is said to be worth to see, but I missed it. For some adventure, drive the way along the coast from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott, but get lots of information before and drive with at least two cars; there are people who lost their car in the tide! Jonas and I tried, but our second car turned around at the first obstacle (a stone) and went back to the safe ground.

Mauretania was considered safe for a long time, but in recent time the association for an Islamic Maghreb gains power along the border to Algeria, so this area is considered dangerous. On the other side, Mauretania is so big that you don’t have to go to the dangerous areas. I always felt safe.

 

A lot of Europeans consider the Maures racists, and there is some truth in it. Maures are nomads and merchants and the rich ones can be nice or very arrogant. Small business is run by blacks, former slaves – or Lebanese. Maures are quite hard to understand, I think, but they are very polite in their own way towards foreigners. The Maures consider themselves as bearer of a great religious muslim heritage, so try to respect muslim culture and don’t offend them by wearing shorts or tops. But, like in Morocco, I never wore a veil (only a scarf around my neck, to show good will). And most Maures were very nice. Except some stupid rich youngsters who thought they’d be more holy than the prophet himself and wanted our dog thrown out of the restaurant.

I found their French difficult to understand (didn’t try any English). The Maures speak hassani or hassanya, a very melodic arabic dialect. And they are pleasantly surprised when they notice that you know some Arabic. Best thing: they don’t care if you are there or not, no one bothers you, at least no Maure. I guess they will help you when in trouble and of course they like tourist money, but they have their pride and wait until you come to them asking for a service.

I like the clothes. Women wear mahlifa, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the body like a sari, the design differs from region to region. It can be a special kind of elaborate batik or even indigo. Maure men wear mostly traditional clothes in shades of blue or white, always with a chech.

 

Nothing spectacular to report in the food department. Acceptable to good dishes are served in Morocan or Lebanese restaurants. Mauretanian culture is nomadic, so there isn’t an elaborated cuisine. Don’t insult them by asking for alcohol, they won’t have, at least not for you. Some kind of baguette is sold on the street (I didn’t see the chubs (bread) like in Morocco. Strange…).

 

In Nouadhibou we stayed at the campsite Auberge Abba, very nice, but also frequented by overlander trucks. The city is small, with little more to do than watch the train coming in. Don’t expect to stock up your supplies there, do so in Morrocco.

In Nouakchott we were at the Auberge Sahara. That is a nice place to stay, with free wireless internet. The cook is a Belgian who makes great tagine and leads an interesting life. The camping is the parking place, not very big and sometimes cramped. It’s a little bit out of the town centre, but you won’t need a taxi to get around. Jonas peeked into the Auberge Menata and liked it more, so perhaps next time. The harbor and the fish market are worth a look. If you like fresh fish, go there. The city was founded in the sixties, so don’t expect anything spectacular.

We drove along the route de l’espoir and bushcamped in the stone desert.

In Aoyun el-Atrous there actually is a campsite, or at least a hotel where you can camp (Auberge-Camping Saada Tenza). The very nice owner offered us dinner and it was cheap and quite good.

 

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